Posts

The Anti-Smell

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It's clearly been a minute since I updated. Shortly after my last post, I started grad school and the blog kind of got away from me. I'm still in school but on a break right now. This post has been floating around in my head pretty much since we moved it, but I've never been totally sure how to describe this sensory experience, so I just let it rattle around in there.  There are a lot of interesting smells in Abuja. Most of them are the result of non-existent trash collection; there's no city trash. People who can pay private companies to collect do, and people who can't either abandon their trash or burn it. The community next to us fairly regularly burns their trash, and it is among the more awful smells I've experienced in my life, including other burning trash.  There are also animal smells because goats, dogs, chickens, and cows roam the streets during the day and either hunker down or are collected by their owners at night. The cattle are nearly always wit...

Across, Underneath the Grocery (An Unhinged Number of Green Beans)

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Subtitle: You Can't Always Get What You Want... But You Get What You Need (maybe) Going shopping here has proven to be an adventure. Big picture getting groceries is easy and straightforward, but I would describe the process of finding a specific item as chaotic at best. At the risk of being melodramatic and diving fully into main-character syndrome, I often feel like a bumbling, sweaty YA protagonist who has interpreted their vague instructions all wrong but everything still manages to work out for them because the plot demands it.  For example, we've really wanted a rug for the past two months. The floor is polished tile and when we sat on the long part of the sectional, the two pieces would slowly separate until you had to do an awkward half crunch, half roll to get out of the crack and push the couch back together. Plus Humboldt's toys and scratchers slide around on the tile and he couldn't get a good purchase to use them. So I did a little research and found a few ...

Normal

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Nigerians will look me straight in the eye and tell me that one of the spiciest dishes I’ve ever attempted to eat isn’t spicy; it’s normal. The first time that happened, I thought this guy was messing with me. Then I thought maybe it was a macho thing. I told him several times that this catfish, while delicious, was incredibly spicy for me. He finally asked the woman who had hosted the party if the catfish was spicy, and she turned to me and asked “for her,” pointing at me. I nodded. And she confirmed that yes I would find that dish very spicy.   He felt terrible. He wasn’t messing with me or anything. It really just was a normal dish for him, and he apologized profusely. I was not offended, but I was confused about how he didn’t think it was spicy at all.   I didn’t think much of it except to laugh when I told Kevin about it later. But then it happened again and again. People earnestly telling me I won’t find this dish spicy. I just don’t even ask anymore and assume it will b...

Just honk!

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  Just as I was getting ready to sit down and figure out how to start this blog, Humboldt came up to me and demanded his mid-morning cuddles. I am luxuriating in the almost infinite time to do just that–cuddle Humboldt, bake, read, exercise, or really whatever strikes my fancy.  I initially didn't think I would have a blog when we were on our way over here but I've understandably had enough people asking what life is like that I figured this was the easiest way to tell people. So this isn't meant to be a travel blog or anything more than just me talking about my life to friends and family in a way that may or may not be very organized. If you want to be my blog editor, let me know. :) Or if you just notice a typo you can message me. My honest answer to what's my life like here is that it's pretty normal. It honestly feels similar to when we moved to Seattle in 2020, and I didn't have a job but without the pandemic trauma and existential crisis about what I was g...